|This is Jaws not Outer Log Cabins and the photo is not from the same day as the story.|
Now we were screaming and rejoicing as we were beyond the impact zone and out alone, way out. If we got hit there, there was nobody to come and save us, no one knew we were there.
Our bodies were pumped full of adrenalin because had we been one second slower we would
We ventured to a place called Outer Log cabins where it was perfect 50-100 foot faces with no-one else out. I jumped in ready to be towed in as Sammy took over the driving. It was then the thrill of a lifetime began as we surfed the biggest surf ever ridden, dropping into these waves felt like launching out of an aeroplane without a parachute. I survived some ultra heavy duty wipeouts as I pushed myself deeper and deeper inside.
As the sets would come the horizon would lift up and touch the sky as giant walls marched towards us.
|Middle of a three shot sequence of a big wave barrel.|
I pointed to Sammy to get ready to catch the
biggest wave of the set, my body was still pulsing with adrenaline, taking
off and looking down the line of a 30-50 ft wave my board was going
faster then the jet-ski, coming up into the heaviest part of the wave and
racing the lip to the bottom of the wave was frightening.
It happened fast and felt like it was forever.
There will never be a day as big and perfect as this for the rest of our surfing days.
Have a good surf.
from Cheyne Horan.
|Cheyne slotted in a mega-barrel|