See also Jaws contest.
Surfing big waves is an extension of surfing normal waves. It's hard to answer the question "Why surf big waves" because it's like asking YOU
"Why do you want to go for a surf?".
You just do that's all.
Recently we had a big swell here on the Goldie (Cyclone Sosei) and magazine Australian Surfing Life had a feature story. I was with my fellow surf instructor John Preston and mate Greg Wilson and I was quoted as saying it was 15foot with the largest at maybe twenty, check this wave buoy shot around the 12 o'clock mark on the 11th April when we were on it, off the richter!
I'll be getting some more photos and stories together for this page.
Sung to the tune of Gangster's Paradise
Yeah I walk thru the valley of the shadow of death
and I look at my life and say "Have I done it yet"?
Livin'in, livin'in Surf'ers Para'dise