Surfing big waves is an extension of surfing normal waves. It’s hard to answer the question:
“Why surf big waves?”
…because it’s like asking YOU
“Why do you want to go for a surf?”
…You just do that’s all.
Here is a story about one of my biggest days with tow-in partner Sammy Hawke on the North Shore of Hawaii, the day became known as “Biggest Wednesday.”
Also here is Ken Bradshaw’s spin on the day.
Recently we had a big swell here on the Goldie (Cyclone Sosei) and the magazine Australian Surfing Life had a feature story. I was with my fellow surf instructor John Preston and mate Greg Wilson and I was quoted as saying it was 15 foot with the largest at maybe 20, check this wave buoy shot around the 12 o’clock mark on the 11th April when we were on it, off the richter!